Thursday, December 15, 2011

MAGNUM Programmable REV LIMITER Ignition Controller Evinrude 40 HP EFI

!±8± MAGNUM Programmable REV LIMITER Ignition Controller Evinrude 40 HP EFI

Brand : Magnum Tuning | Rate : | Price :
Post Date : Dec 16, 2011 05:51:05 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days

AUTHENTIC MAGNUM REVOLUTION-PRO * PROGRAM YOUR IGNITION, RPM & SPEED LIMIT WITH TWO MINI BUTTONS EVEN DURING THE CRUISE. REVOLUTION PRO-II is a special adjustable digital VCXO (Voltage-Controlled Crystal Oscillator) with uniquely extended frequency range, developed to fuel injected inboards/outboards. It plugs to the ECU's factory quartz. A quartz also referred to as crystal oscillator is a tiny electronic oscillator circuit that applies the mechanical resonance of a vibrating crystal of piezoelectric structure to produce an electrical signal with a very precise frequency. This frequency is used to keep track of time to provide a stable clock-signal for digital devices as PC. This PROGRAMMABLE chip allows you to raise RPM & speed limit by up to 20 % while remaps ignition timing & advance. REV-Pro is the best choice to harmonize the engine management with further performance parts preinstalled as exhaust, intake, fuel programmer, etc. in order to achieve ultimate power. MAGNUM developed this CDI box to comply with electronic management system requirements of tuned engines accordingly highly recommended to wire up a fuel controller in advance. Though the unit installs easy & FULL INSTRUCTIONS INCLUDED & even people who are slightly technically inclined will find, chip is not difficult to wire up, dismantling of ECU still required accordingly we strongly recommend having a certified tech install this unit if you are not experienced with basic electronic jobs. Before purchase open up ECU and check whether you are able to remove the silicon seal - applied on some models - from inside because you need to access to the factory quartz crystal. Magnum TuningTM has been dealing with manufacture of upgrades since 1994. Magnum's experience warrants peak performance, reliability & perfect style. Magnum Parts are made in Europe & covered by 10-YEAR WARRANTY.

  • Improves engine horsepower
  • Improves torque throughout the RPM range
  • Remaps ignition timing and advance
  • Allows you to raise RPM and speed limit
  • Works in conjunction with fuel controllers

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Saturday, December 10, 2011

Dyno-Boost Adjustable Fuel Controller Performance Chip Evinrude 40 HP EFI

!±8±Dyno-Boost Adjustable Fuel Controller Performance Chip Evinrude 40 HP EFI

Brand : Magnum Tuning
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Price :
Post Date : Dec 11, 2011 05:18:07
Usually ships in 1-2 business days



MAGNUMTUNING FACTORY DYNO-BOOST is a fully adjustable, INBOARD/OUTBOARD SPECIFIC fuel controller featuring an in-dash remote designed for all fuel injected boat engines controlled by ECU, simply wires inline with the IAT (Intake Air Temperature) also referred to as MAF (Mass Air Flow), MAP sensor. DYNO-BOOST tricks the ECU thinking the intake air much more cooler, then the ECU will send more fuel for a richer mix. It allows you to fully adjust the Air Fuel Ratio (AFR). This reliable boat Performance Chip will add 15 % extra horsepower improved economy & fine throttle response to your factory performance without any compromise of engine durability or reliability. Are you in need of great hole shot? Have a luxury cruiser or a swift powerboat or just want to get to your fishing spot fast? Dyno-Boost is the answer. Even people who are not technical minded will find, kit is not difficult to install just needs 20 minutes. It will not affect engine reliability & endurance. Remap factory engine or calibrate engine management to any performance ignition kit, intake, etc. preinstalled. EVO-TECH increases HP by adjusting AFR between 12.7 & 14.7. Set advanced fuel trim, dialing a multi-turn screw. Adjustment needs no expertise. Chip modifies signals being read by the ECU, resulting adjustment to the AFR. Though performance chips are not especially for economy improvement & supposed to gain more HP, when modifying air fuel ratio, slightly at the expense of emission & noise level, efficiency of combustion is improved & you SAVE FUEL by up to 6%. Specific chips are sorted into several categories according to operating range / type of IAT / MAF sensor. Magnum TuningTM has been dealing with manufacture of upgrades since 1994. Magnum's experience warrants peak performance, reliability & perfect style. Magnum Parts are made in Europe & covered by 10-YEAR WARRANTY.

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Sunday, November 20, 2011

1967 Evinrude 40 HP Lark Big Twin & Electric Manual

!±8±1967 Evinrude 40 HP Lark Big Twin & Electric Manual

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Post Date : Nov 20, 2011 10:15:06
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A 1967 Evinrude Lark Big Twin Big Twin Electric 40 HP Service Manual. For models 40762, 40763, 40772, 40773, 40702, 40703, 40752, 40753. What you see is what you will receive, we don't use stock photos.Tons of information and illustrations, covers everything,no missing pages.

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Thursday, November 17, 2011

SALMON FISHING - How To Catch Salmon By Downrigging

!±8± SALMON FISHING - How To Catch Salmon By Downrigging

I live in Wasaga Beach on Georgian Bay - part of Lake Huron of the Great Lakes in Canada. The Beach's main claim to fame is that it is the largest freshwater beach in the world...over 25 miles of sandy shores.

There is some amazing salmon fishing off Wasaga Beach and Collingwood, which is just 15 miles away.

And if the salmon just aren't taking your bait, and you are just dragging iron around, you can often go shallower and pick up a steelhead (rainbow) and/or a brown trout.

There are pretty good docking facilities at Collingwood. I prefer to launch my boat there, because they are seldom busy, so I can get my boat launched and get on the water fairly quickly. Also, the mouth of the Nottawasaga at Wasaga Beach is often quite shallow due to the silt build-up there.

I have an 18 foot cheap old fibreglass boat called 'Patches'. The name will seem obvious when you see the boat. But I didn't skimp on the motor. It is a very reliable, fairly new 60 HP Evinrude.

I run out of Collingwood Harbour (where they used to build minesweepers during the war and big Lakers after the war. It's now shut down.), past the deserted grain elevators, and out onto Georgian Bay. I don't fish if the water is any more than a chop. I've been out on the bay when the winds suddenly blew down from the Blue Mountains, and know that 2-3 foot (and higher) waves can happen in the blink of an eye. Get distracted landing a big fish for just a few minutes, and you can be in trouble.

I use a fishfinder/depthfinder permanently wired into the boat with the transponder permanently attached to the transom. This lets me know when I have run out to the 85 foot depth. I let the motor idle and get the gear ready.

My 6 foot rods are equipped with heavy duty Penn baitcast reels and 50 lb braided line. Braided line is very hard to cut, and won't stretch, so you get more feel from the line than with conventional monofilament line.

But first, I prepare the downriggers. I can manage 2 of them easily, because they are electric. I use a 5 lb lead 'cannonball' on the end of 150 feet braided steel cable on each. I test each to make sure that the up/down switches work in both directions.

Usually I will put on a larger bluish spoon on one of the downriggers, and a silverish color plug on the other. I'll use these for about ½ hour before changing up if I don't get any hits. Then I'll go to a dark (black, dark green, etc) on one, and something garish (red, orange, spotted) on the other. Another 1/2 hour of no action, and I'll change lures again. Once I find what is working that day, I put that color, or as close as I can get, on both lines.

Then I put the boat in gear and idle around 3 MPH. When I let the line out, I run one line 6-10 feet behind the cannonball, and the other 15-20 feet behind. Then I clip the line to the cannonball's clip, and let the line down when I lower the cannonball so that one cannonball is close to the bottom (about 5 feet above), and the other is about 15 feet above. Keep an eye on the fishfinder to see where the fish are staging, and try to be both just above and just below that level.

I also like to use 'stingers'. This is a 6-8 foot length of line with a snap swivel on each end. After the downriggers are lowered, snap the one end to the line going down to the cannonball, and snap a smaller spoon to the other end. I try to use silver or blue on the stingers. The stingers will slide down the line, but stop at the 'belly', often picking up shallow cruising salmon, usually the younger ones (sweeter eating), or steelhead.

I slowly idle deeper and deeper out to around 125 feet depth, then shallower to 85 feet, then back out etc. in a zigzag fashion. I adjust the cannonball depth accordingly. Of course, once I hit salmon, I stay near that depth, where the fish are.

If the salmon just aren't feeding at that time, I'll run back to about 30-40 feet and downrig for steelhead or brown trout instead. The fishfinder will help me to find the schools of baitfish and the trout feeding off them. Use baitfish looking lures like Rapalas, small spoons, flies, etc.

The salmon fishing is best at 3 times...at sunrise, at high noon, and just after sunset. So don't quit too early. I find it is best to go golfing in the afternoon, and come back to the salmon at night.

If your better half will let you.


SALMON FISHING - How To Catch Salmon By Downrigging

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